How to Choose a Pomade for Shine, Hold, and Definition

Quick Answer

To choose a pomade, first decide your desired shine level: low shine for a matte look, medium for natural, high shine for a sleek, wet look. Then match hold strength to your hair type and style: light for fine hair, firm for thick or curly. Water-based pomades wash out easily, while oil-based offer stronger hold but are harder to remove.

Pomade is a versatile styling product that can deliver everything from a subtle, natural finish to a high-shine, retro slick-back. But with so many formulas on the market, how do you know which one is right for you? The key is to understand the two main factors: shine level and hold strength.

Whether you're aiming for a classic pompadour, a modern textured crop, or defined curls, the right pomade can make all the difference. This guide breaks down the decision process step by step, so you can confidently pick a pomade that matches your hair type and styling goals.

Decoding Shine Levels: From Matte to High Shine

Pomades come in a range of shines, typically categorized as low (matte), medium (natural), or high (glossy). Low-shine pomades are ideal for a modern, work-appropriate finish that doesn't look greasy. Medium shine offers a healthy sheen that works for most casual and professional styles. High-shine pomades deliver a wet-look, often associated with vintage styles like the pompadour or slick-back.

Your choice should also consider your hair color and thickness. High-shine products can make fine hair look thinner and can appear oily on dark hair if over-applied. If you're new to pomades, starting with a medium shine is often the safest bet. For those who want a dramatic, reflective finish, a high-shine pomade will deliver that classic, polished look.

• Low shine: best for matte, natural styles; won't weigh down fine hair.
• Medium shine: versatile for daily wear; adds healthy gloss without being greasy.
• High shine: perfect for special occasions or vintage looks; use sparingly to avoid an oily appearance.

Hold Strength: Matching to Hair Type and Style

Hold strength ranges from light to firm. Light hold (often called flexible) allows natural movement and is ideal for fine or thin hair that can be easily weighed down. Medium hold provides more structure while still allowing some flexibility. Firm hold is best for thick, coarse, or curly hair that needs strong control to maintain a style throughout the day.

Consider your styling routine as well. If you prefer to restyle throughout the day, a lighter hold gives you more flexibility. If you need a style to last from morning to night, a firmer hold is more reliable. Keep in mind that high-hold pomades often contain more wax or oil, which can be harder to wash out. Water-based firm-hold pomades offer a good compromise: strong hold that rinses away easily.

• Light hold: fine hair, natural styles, easy restyling.
• Medium hold: most hair types, everyday styles.
• Firm hold: thick, curly, or unruly hair; all-day hold.

Water-Based vs. Oil-Based Pomades

Water-based pomades are water-soluble, making them easy to apply and wash out with just water. They often provide a medium to firm hold with a natural or low shine. Many modern water-based formulas also offer a reworkable hold, meaning you can restyle your hair later in the day without adding more product.

Oil-based pomades are the traditional formulas, offering a high shine and strong, long-lasting hold. They are not water-soluble, so they require a clarifying shampoo to remove completely. Oil-based pomades are excellent for slick styles that need to stay put, but they can leave buildup and may feel heavy on fine hair. For most people, water-based pomades are the more convenient choice, but oil-based formulas are still favored for their unmatched hold and shine.

• Water-based: easy washout, reworkable, lighter feel.
• Oil-based: high shine, strong hold, harder to remove.
• Choose oil-based if you need extreme hold for a special event or prefer a traditional slick look.

Special Considerations: Curly Hair and Gel Pomades

If you have curly hair, you might wonder whether to use a pomade or a curl-defining product like a gel. Pomades can add shine and control frizz, but they may not provide the same definition and moisture as products designed specifically for curls. A curl gel pomade hybrid can offer the best of both worlds: the hold and shine of a pomade with the moisture and curl definition of a gel.

For curly hair, look for pomades that contain nourishing ingredients and are water-based to avoid drying out your curls. Products like Bumble and bumble's Curl Anti-Humidity Gel-Oil for Frizz Control are formulated to fight frizz and add bounce without stiffness. If your main goal is sleek, straight styles, a traditional pomade might be more suitable. But for defined, bouncy curls, a curl-specific product will likely serve you better.

• Curly hair: opt for water-based formulas with moisturizing ingredients.
• Gel pomades: provide curl definition and hold without crunch.
• If you have fine, straight hair, a lightweight pomade can add texture without weighing hair down.

Decision Rules: Choosing Your Pomade

• Shine preference: Decide on low, medium, or high shine based on the look you want and your hair type. High shine can make fine hair look thinner, while low shine is more subtle. If you want a classic wet look, go for high shine. For everyday, medium shine is versatile.
• Hair type and thickness: Fine hair needs lighter products to avoid weighing down; thick or coarse hair can handle heavier, stronger formulas. Curly hair benefits from moisturizing ingredients. Fine hair: choose light or medium hold. Thick or curly: firm hold with moisture.
• Hold strength needed: Match hold to your styling goals and how long you need the style to last. Light hold for natural movement, firm for all-day control. For a style that lasts all day, opt for firm hold. If you like to restyle, choose a flexible hold.
• Washout convenience: Water-based pomades wash out easily; oil-based require more effort. Consider your daily routine and tolerance for buildup. If you prefer easy cleanup, choose a water-based pomade. If you need extreme hold for a special occasion, oil-based may be worth the extra effort.

Products to Consider

• Holding Hairspray Non-Aerosol for Firm, Flexible Hold: This non-aerosol hairspray creates firm (yet flexible), workable and brushable control. Ideal for all hair types seeking hold and flexibility in their finished style. If you prefer a spray for finishing rather than a pomade, this hairspray offers a firm but flexible hold that allows brushing, making it a good alternative for styles that need to be adjusted after application.
• Curl Anti-Humidity Gel-Oil for Frizz Control: This frizz-reducing, hair gel-oil hybrid adds bounce, shine, and moisture while nourishing and protecting against humidity. Ideal for coily to curly patterns seeking moisture, bounce, and shine. For those with curly hair who want the definition of a gel without the crunch, this gel-oil hybrid provides moisture and shine while fighting frizz, making it a smart alternative to a traditional pomade for curly styles.

Who Should Use What

Best for

• High-shine pomades are best for those seeking a classic, polished look for events or daily wear.
• Water-based pomades with medium hold are versatile for most hair types and styles.

Not for

• Oil-based high-shine pomades are not ideal for fine hair that gets easily weighed down.
• Traditional pomades may not be the best choice for curly hair that needs moisture and definition; consider a curl-specific product instead.

Choosing the right pomade comes down to understanding your hair type and the look you want. Start by identifying your preferred shine level and hold strength, then consider the practical differences between water-based and oil-based formulas. If you have curly hair, don't overlook curl-specific products that offer definition and moisture. With these rules in mind, you'll be able to select a pomade that keeps your style looking sharp all day.